Unravels the big island stormy history and complex myths ?takes you to the high drama of Etna free firework displays and serene far-flung islands in the cleanest seas in Italy ?reveals the fantastic architecture of Syracuse on the southeast coast and the ancient sites of Tindari, Himera and Solunto dotted along the Tyrrhenian coast ?seeks out the souks of old Palermo and the temples of Agrigento ?leads you to the best plate of swordfish involtini on Lipari and the finest wine in Marsala